One of the best things about cycling in France is the sense of freedom it gives you. You don’t always need a plan—sometimes the best rides happen when you just clip in, start pedalling, and see where the road (or trail) takes you.
This summer I’ve been exploring two very different corners of France by bike: the wild coast of Normandy and the fairytale landscapes of the Loire Valley. Both rides started with no set route and turned into unforgettable adventures full of history, scenery, and those little surprises that make cycling here so special.
Gravel Riding in Barfleur, Normandy
My first ride takes us to Barfleur, a charming fishing town on the Cotentin Peninsula, known for its stone harbour, coastal views, and laid-back atmosphere.
I set off on a 50km gravel loop, plotted loosely on Strava, with nothing more than a sense of curiosity to guide me. The ride took me along quiet country lanes, shaded woodland trails, and windswept stretches of the English Channel coast.
The biggest surprise of the day? Stumbling upon one of the largest German WWII batteries I’ve seen in Normandy, hidden away on the beach. It was a stark reminder of the region’s history, standing in contrast to the peace and beauty of the ride.
From dappled climbs through the forest to hidden bays that seemed to appear out of nowhere, this loop had everything that makes gravel riding in Normandy so rewarding.
If you’re planning a cycling trip in northern France, Barfleur is the perfect place to base yourself for coastal adventures.
Loire Valley Mystery Tour: From Saumur to Château Magic
A few days later, I swapped the sea breeze of Normandy for the sunshine of the Loire Valley, starting from the campsite in Saumur. With temperatures pushing 29°C, I knew it would be a hot one, but I didn’t expect the ride to turn into such a mystery tour.
Almost immediately, I found myself on hidden gravel singletrack running alongside the Loire River—shaded, quiet, and perfect for summer riding. But like all good adventures, things didn’t always go smoothly. Let’s just say there were plenty of water stops, a chocolate banana bar meltdown, and a few wrong turns along the way!
The highlight was undoubtedly rolling up to the Château de Saumur, one of the most beautiful castles in France. With its towers, turrets, and clifftop views, it looked like something straight out of a Disney film. Saumur is also home to the Cadre Noir, France’s world-famous riding school, adding another layer of history and tradition to the town.
As a bonus, I caught some of the build-up to the Anjou VĂ©lo Vintage festival, an annual celebration of cycling culture that brings retro bikes, costumes, and a festival atmosphere to the streets of Saumur.
Why I Ride Like This
Neither of these rides had a fixed plan, and that’s exactly why they worked so well. Cycling in France isn’t just about the destination—it’s about the discoveries you make along the way. A forest climb here, a hidden bay there, a château you weren’t expecting… these are the moments that stick with you.
If you love cycling, history, and a dash of adventure, make sure to subscribe to my YouTube channel where I share weekly rides through Normandy, the Loire Valley, and beyond.