Cycling in France: 5 Things That Catch Visiting Cyclists Out
Most cyclists come to France dreaming of empty roads, village cafés, and long lunches in the sun. And honestly, it really is like that. But there are a few quirks that catch visiting riders out — especially anyone used to cycling in the UK or the US. Here are the five things I wish someone had told me before my first cycling trip in France.
1. Helmets Are Not Legally Required for Adults
You do not have to wear a helmet to cycle in France. It is recommended, but it is not obligatory for adults.
There is a rule that children under 12 must wear a helmet, but enforcement on the road is rare.
I almost always wear one. For long rides, unfamiliar roads, or fast descents in the Alps, it is a no-brainer. Safety first, peace of mind second, comfort third. But legally, the choice is yours.
2. The Two-Abreast Rule for Group Riding
If you are riding in a group in France, the legal maximum is two cyclists side by side. Any more than that and you are technically breaking the rules of the road.
In practice, you should also drop into single file on narrow roads, in poor visibility, and at night. French drivers are generally patient with cyclists, but riding three or four abreast on a country road is a fast way to lose that goodwill.
3. Cafés and Boulangeries Close at Surprising Times
This is the one that catches the most visitors out.
Most cafés, boulangeries, and small shops in French villages close for lunch — often from around 12:30 to 14:30 or even later. Many also close on Sundays and Mondays. Some take Wednesday or Tuesday off as well.
If you are planning a café stop mid-ride, do not assume anywhere will be open. Check opening hours the day before and have a backup plan.
4. Annual Holiday Closures in the Middle of Summer
Even more surprising: businesses in touristic areas will often close for a two or three week annual holiday right in the middle of summer.
It is completely normal to ride into a village in August and find the boulangerie, the supermarket, and the only café all shut for “congés annuels.” This happens in places you would never expect — including villages near major tourist routes.
The fix is simple. Experienced riders in France always carry snacks and enough water to get home, even on what looks like a well-supplied route. A couple of cereal bars and a banana in your pocket can save the day.
5. Use the Cycle Paths When They Exist
France has a fantastic and growing network of dedicated cycle paths — “voies vertes” and “pistes cyclables.” Using them is not legally obligatory in most cases, but I always try to.
Two reasons. First, they are safer and less stressful than sharing a busy road. Second, the more we use them, the more the local authorities build. The less we use them, the more likely they are to be scrapped or left to deteriorate.
If there is a good cycle path running parallel to the road you would otherwise be on, take it.
What Else Should You Know Before Cycling in France?
These are the five quirks that catch out the most visiting cyclists I speak to. If you have ridden in France and discovered something else worth knowing — a regional rule, a hidden closure pattern, a road etiquette quirk — share it in the comments under the video. Always interesting to hear what surprised other riders.